Held by the Trail

I once fell in love in a land of myths and legends.  A place where salt air spray swirls with thick-trunked mango trees.  Fresh rivers bubble rainbows, falling to pool in eddies held by the scent of wild ginger flowers.  For thousands of years, people have sipped from these waters and walked barefoot through the fruitful forest.

Rex and I, we drank from crisp springs spouting through thick moss and funneled the nectar to our lips with a Ti leaf.  At night on the bluffs by the sea, we’d make wishes on stars while he played guitar, singing songs and watching the waves glow silver in moonlight.  When it was time for sleep, we’d follow the path to our riverside camp, guiding the way with one flashlight.

This place, that love, it is my own folklore.  A tale of how the winds whispered through the guava that this man would be the father of my child.  How the story would unfold over three years, through two trips to India and at least five break ups (and reconciliations) before our son actually wove into the telling.

This place holds my family legend.  As does the eleven miles of rugged trail that threads to reach this haven.  The initiating pathway that strips the excess from the soul.  Baring body, heart and mind in order to be worthy to walk among the sacred.  The last time I walked its entirety, I was thirty years old and five months pregnant, committed to hiking in one more time before the baby came to change my life forever.  The moment my soles stepped upon the path, I knew all would be well.

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

That’s the first time Jeb and I hiked that trail together.  Deep coastal oxygen filled my bloodstream and a joy emanated from the baby in my womb.  Eleven miles and four and a half hours later, I was dipping in waterfalls and napping in the sunshine on a warm rock. It was on this same journey that I felt my child move within me for the first time, as I pressed my back to the land and watched the stars. He loved this place too.

That was over seven years ago.  The family that was seeded in mountain mist and music became fractured.  There were diapers and groceries.  Lost dreams and broken promises.  Longing, disappointment and eventually, resign.  But separation doesn’t mean the end to pain.  For years there’s been a quiet edge we’ve walked, as we’ve tried to reconcile the loss.  Jeb has been the physical reminder of a magic and a love that we once shared.  An essence that can feel so lost and foreign.

Over the years, I’ve hiked portions of the trail with Jeb, the first time when he was three.  But not since he was born have I made it back to the lore that lives eleven miles in.  Though Rex has traversed that course over 200 times in his life, it’s been at least 10 years since he’d set foot upon the path.  Never had our family hiked it together.

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

Following a thread, a whisper, some kind of intuition, I suggested that the three of us hike in the first two miles of the trail.  Rex was a surprising easy yes and Jeb was enthusiastic.  So yesterday, with 70% chance of rain and a backpack full of PB&J, we stepped upon the healing trail.

The depth of what was experienced still percolates.  Softness patted with every step upon the path.  Wordless touches reverberate and ring.  Jeb’s movement between us, offering periodic hugs to each throughout the day.  Exclaiming between the switchbacks, “I love my dad!  I love my mom!”

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

We ate pineapple on a boulder at the river mouth.  Watched whales breach in the ocean and saw dolphins spinning in a huge pod.

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

Jeb scaled mountains that have taken down a grown up.  So inspired, he pushed us past our two-mile mark to trek further on to four.  Upon our return the rain clouds gathered, soaking us on the downhill as we sloshed through puddles.  Wet and slipping through jungle mud, our whole family was smiling.  We were happy and in our element, moving down the mountain and across the river with ease.

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

Eight miles (roundtrip) later, we emerged from the trailhead and went straight to the salty lagoon where we sighed into lapping waves, rubbing the dirt from our bodies with the sand.  We toweled off under the trees and put on dry clothes.  Rex exclaimed “I feel better than I have in years!”

The lifeguards packed up to go home.  The tourists fumbled through their rental cars in the parking lot.  Jeb and Rex and I walked on wet pavement back towards my car.  Jeb still hummed one of the little tunes that had been spilling from his throat all day.  There were pruned toes and Rex’s back was a little sore -“I must be getting old!”  But no one was complaining.  We were all just happy and amazed.

So the legend continues, this weaving of the tale.  How this sacred place holds my family – a connection all our own, one we are still learning to understand.  We touched peace in the mountain path.  Breathed in molecules of ease as they dripped from rain-soaked banana leaves.

I hear my own words to Jeb as we were there sidestepping through slick mud.  “There’s no hurry, love.  Take it one step at a time.  And just let the trail hold you.”

Steeping in an Essence

This morning I look for a thread, some simple, single thing to share.  But all are snippets.

Fresh sheets on the bed.
Jeb’s first sunflower bloom at sunrise.
Anais Nin and Henry Miller.
Archival storage boxes.
The Paris Writer’s Workshop.
Fresh-cut canvases and thick, white oil paint.
Art’s essence and time travel.
Is the time machine our heart?

The grainy picture of that distant, remote island.  Ten years before my digital camera.

photo by Jessica Dofflemyer - all rights reserved

I lived in that place.  Among swans that floated on ice blue waters.  A street called Morningside along a waterfall to the sea.  Purple starfish clung to ocean bottoms while Bald Eagles’ mated,  free falling from the sky.  Thick green moss on ancient tree trunks were velvet thrones in a seaside forest.  And then there was the love.

Full French in rolling sweetness. Je t’aime in loving arms.

In the fairy land we weren’t afraid to take our hearts and just pull them from our bodies.  Hold them in our hands beneath the stars.  Gaze into each other’s eyes and seek there freely.  Fumble through discovery.  Lay down in the leaves.  Wonder at connection.  Trust in the magic all around.

The Honey of Peace

Last month in California, my father loaned  me his special desktop copy of Robinson Jeffers Selected Poems.  I was on a pilgrimage to Tor House, but first, five days in my feel-good place.

Dad's book at the Jeffers' Cornerstone

Within hours of arriving at the land of my solo retreat, I was out of sorts and feeling stuck.  Searching for clues, I flipped through pages of poetry and found the somber piece “To the Stone-cutters” (entire work can be read here).  My journal entry begins by quoting the last line.  One that seems even more relevant now as I try to glean some nectar from the words I wrote during that expansive time.

Here’s an excerpt from day one, as I began to unravel in that coastal dwelling.

“The honey of peace in old poems…”  Robinson Jeffers

‘Dance Church’ is next door and the bass is pumping.  I know that I love to dance but there are reasons I am here, not there:  jet lag, no sleep, bloodshot eyes, bad music, closed circuits, just don’t feel like it.

I peek in the window and be the voyeur that watches but doesn’t want to take the plunge.  Sixty happy people move and jump in a mass of ecstatic wildness.  A man exits, sees my indecision and encourages me to go inside.  I tell him that I am just too tired.

“I was too, but it woke me up…”

Eventually, I enter.  Somewhere around the Van Halen song, “Jump”, (that’s right, ‘go ahead and jump!’) I’m telling myself that I just can’t dance to this.  But then I try it anyway.  David Lee Roth’s mantra segues into something more palatable and I’m soon a member of the congregation, dancing my own kind of freedom.  My state is altered, my body enlivened and I get so into it that when Dance Church is over and it’s time for dinner, I can barely eat.

Later I’m in the hot springs on a new moon in the starlight.  A bath with myself and two women – silent.  After a long while one begins to gently sing:  “When I am in the light of my soul I am home.”

She sings this line quietly for a short time then slowly exits the bath.  More silence, warm water and calm.”

Ahh…the honey of peace in old poems.